Geez. This is so hard. I am trying to come up with a way to make this blog entry interesting for my readers and compelling enough where they would say “oh, I so want to go there”, but in the process, am second guessing myself in terms of trying to find the right images to post so that “allure” factor is there for you!
As one who has traveled more internationally than domestically, I am so glad we did this trip. I have been to 5 continents and seen amazing places — among those Spain/Italy/England/The Netherlands, Portugal, The Philippines, Australia, Morocco, Mexico, Bermuda, US Virgin Islands, and British Virgin Islands. So a huge variation in lifestyle, terrain, culture and hemispheres! And this trip to Napa/San Fran is right up there. With the culinary richness it offers plus the scenery, it was a vacation of all the senses! In fact, we opted to spend a bit less time in San Fran proper to drive the coastline and see more countryside. That unexpected and unplanned part of the trip was what really took this trip to a whole new level.
So day 1-4 Jack and I were in Napa Valley. We arrived at 930am Pacific (read: a crazy-early 7am non-stop flight got us there) which allowed for nearly a full day (if you have the energy after waking at 4am!)! We flew into San Fran and rented a car, immediately driving straight to Sonoma for lunch. First things first. Wine. We started off with an outstanding meal at “The Girl and a Fig” restaurant….sampling cheese, breads and champagne (never too early to start with the grapes). We used a Frommer’s guide for most of the trip and it was excellent as a resource. We also culled information sent to us from friends or friends of friends who had been out there. The weather was hot (around 100 each day we were there) but it felt like a true vacation. We then headed over the mountain to the Napa Valley and started our time there.
It was outstanding to say the least. We hit about 3-4 vineyards each day and the Napa Valley, particularly Rutherford where we stayed, is known for Cabernet Sauvignon but of course, the valley has many kinds of varietals white and red. The sampling was great and a couple wineries were especially generous. Normally, a winery tasting consists of 4 pre-selected wines for a fee — anywhere from $10 – $25/person. The one we ended up joining as a wine club member was, eh hem, one of the more generous tastings and I think (read: think b/c I can’t be sure) we had about 7 tastings there. Naturally, we are going to join but they really were quite good! Rubicon was that winery and it was gorgeous (the grounds and the building). This is Coppola’s boutique vineyard as he has a larger operation under the “Francis Ford Coppola” label in Sonoma Country. Rubicon is hard to find in most stores, at least the less expensive bottles. But this estate was impressive in that it’s history (location) was under the Inglenook name (no longer around) which was one of the few ‘grandfathers’ of the Napa Valley if you were to mention names that have longevity and history.
We also hit:
- Castle Winery
- BV (Beaulieu Vineyard)
- Caymus
- Cakebread Cellars
- Peju
- Silverado
- Clos du Val
- Elizabeth Spencer, and
- Flora Springs
Unfortunately, we did not have time to go to Robert Mondavi’s winery and ironically, he passed away the Friday we were there. He was 95, I think.
The restaurants are a whole other world out there. The best food, freshest ingredients, most creative combinations of flavors, and the best servers. When you get up to go to the restroom, for example, they immediately come over and refold your napkin. I was also amazed by after drinking a couple glasses of iced tea or water, they replace the entire glass with a new one! Just top notch. We ate at the amazing L’Auberge de Soleil, Boucheon pastry shop and restaurant (owned and run by the infamous Thomas Keller of French Laundry (which we did NOT go to — only about 72 guests/evening as it’s around $500/couple for dinner and lasts several hours), and Redd. These were our favorites the entire week. But we had equally great lunches.
On our last morning, we woke up at 545am to head over to Yountville (we stayed in Rutherford – Napa Valley consists of Napa proper, Yountville, Oakville, Rutherford, St. Helena and Calistoga) for a morning hot air balloon ride over the valley with Napa Valley Aloft — one word for you: breathtaking. It had been canceled on Thursday due to winds and this was our last chance before heading out of Napa. Thankfully it was a GO! I am not afriad of heights but for someone who is, this IS NOT the thing to do. There are no seatbelts and there is NO room in the basket to move (5 of us fit, very snuggly!) and you do get up pretty high. And the top of the basket comes up to your hips or waist, but that’s it! But OMG, amazing, incredible, beyond description. I was loving it and virtually speechless. There were about 8-10 other balloons up that morning so the skyline was magnificent to see them flying but also just to see the valley. It was about an hour ride and the landing was surreal. Our pilot has been doing this over 30 years and there is no knowing where they land each day due to winds but we trusted him 110%. He just told us NOT to talk to him when he’s landing. GULP. So we tried landing once (that poor ground crew chase team that has to follow us in their car everywhere and then run to catch us coming down!) and then aborted before finally landing, at an angle, going what seemed 10mph, between trees, power lines, just feet from vines — finally, in a parking lot of a restaurant with no room to spare! Incredible. Believe me, this valley is all vineyards so there are not many options as you’ll see from the photos. So if you go, and have some pocket change (or more), and feel brave to be high in the sky, this is truly an unforgettable experience. And they follow it up by taking you out for a champagne brunch afterwards. Hummm, more bubbly grapes. Fine by me.
Next part will include our trip to see Redwoods (Sequoias), the Pacific Coastline, and some of San Fran. Thanks for reading!
The view from Silverado’s tasting room.
Rubicon Estate
Cakebread Cellars tasting menu
Believe it or not, these are the TINY grapes that will be harvested when they are luscious and purple in the fall!
This was my favorite appetizer — roasted beets and oranges on arugula!
(taken with my iphone)
So many shops have free tastings be it olives, breads and this had honey tastings which is one of my favorite foods! This store has the most awesome view.
This is just a typical photo of a vineyard up against the hills of Napa Valley.
Inside Rubicon estate — a party and tasting room
Caymus’s tasting room. This one was by appointment only and we had to do it almost 2 months in advance.
A view of Napa Valley from the mountain coming over from Sonoma County.
by Julia
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